04-02-2014, 12:15 PM
Nunii-eluke on läinud edasi ja kotermann toimetab endiselt-eelnenud vilkumine on asendunud permanentselt põleva tulega-viimati saime tule kustu kui Meego-ga rõhuanduri ära vahetasime-nüüd ilmselt sama jama-ilmselt rõhuprobleem-sellest lähtuvalt küsimus:
Kas viga võiks olla süsteemis asuvas õhus-lugesin ühte üllitist-seal väitis et vanatüübi süsteem ise õhku välja ei tuuluta-miks ma arvan, et õhk süsteemis?süsteem oli vahepeal õlist tühi ja maaticu lamp tühikäigul hakkab vahest iseenesest vilkuma-kusjuures ühtegi viga sealt väja ei anna nagu lugeda-iga vilgutamise tsükkel on eri arv vilke-välistaks need süsteemi massivigastused( vilgub näiteks 5x, siis 7x, siis 2x,siis jälle 10x) pärast süsteem toimetab jälle täitsa korralikult mingi 10 min kuniks lööb jälle tule permanentselt põlema.
Pistan siia selle kirjatüki juurde-mõnel asjapulgal hea lugeda ja miskit juurde omandada teadmistepagasisse-teks on ingleeses jällegi.
See my thread on "4matic tips". You're describing ghost flashes which would indicate that the gas charged little
accumulator screwed into your hydraulic valve is shot. I've been playing with this problem for a yr...read the
thread. It's a pressure problem that will disappear as you rev, or put your foot on the brake.
That's not how you get codes BTW; your two blinks would therefore indicate you have a bad control
unit-I bet you don't. The control unit(brain) is very rudimentary in its self-diagnostic abilities.
This is how you test for trouble codes:
Under the hood, right by the battery, there is a connector labelled X92
Start the engine.
1) Short pin 1 and 5 for not more than two seconds then release. You can insert two 5/32 drill bits into
the ports and then short them together.
2) The 4-matic dash light goes out for two seconds, then it starts blinking the code with one second
between each blink, then it goes on steady.
The number of blinks constitutes the fault-code. If you miss it, just do it again. If you short for more
than two seconds you will erase the code.
Codes:
1 - No fault
2 - Defective control unit
3 - Brake switch defect
4 - Speed sensor left front gone
5 - Speed sensor right front gone
6 - Speed sensor rear center gone
7 - All speed sensors gone
8 - Hydraulic valve 1, short- or open-circuit
9 - Hydraulic valve 2, short- or open-circuit
10- Hydraulic valve 3, short- or open-circuit, OR brake switch defect
11- Steering angle sensor defect
Also, it would behoove you to do a complete and correct bleed....so you can rule out air pockets which could
cause erratic symptoms. Unlike the SLS system, the 4matic system does not self-bleed over time.
Kas viga võiks olla süsteemis asuvas õhus-lugesin ühte üllitist-seal väitis et vanatüübi süsteem ise õhku välja ei tuuluta-miks ma arvan, et õhk süsteemis?süsteem oli vahepeal õlist tühi ja maaticu lamp tühikäigul hakkab vahest iseenesest vilkuma-kusjuures ühtegi viga sealt väja ei anna nagu lugeda-iga vilgutamise tsükkel on eri arv vilke-välistaks need süsteemi massivigastused( vilgub näiteks 5x, siis 7x, siis 2x,siis jälle 10x) pärast süsteem toimetab jälle täitsa korralikult mingi 10 min kuniks lööb jälle tule permanentselt põlema.
Pistan siia selle kirjatüki juurde-mõnel asjapulgal hea lugeda ja miskit juurde omandada teadmistepagasisse-teks on ingleeses jällegi.
See my thread on "4matic tips". You're describing ghost flashes which would indicate that the gas charged little
accumulator screwed into your hydraulic valve is shot. I've been playing with this problem for a yr...read the
thread. It's a pressure problem that will disappear as you rev, or put your foot on the brake.
That's not how you get codes BTW; your two blinks would therefore indicate you have a bad control
unit-I bet you don't. The control unit(brain) is very rudimentary in its self-diagnostic abilities.
This is how you test for trouble codes:
Under the hood, right by the battery, there is a connector labelled X92
Start the engine.
1) Short pin 1 and 5 for not more than two seconds then release. You can insert two 5/32 drill bits into
the ports and then short them together.
2) The 4-matic dash light goes out for two seconds, then it starts blinking the code with one second
between each blink, then it goes on steady.
The number of blinks constitutes the fault-code. If you miss it, just do it again. If you short for more
than two seconds you will erase the code.
Codes:
1 - No fault
2 - Defective control unit
3 - Brake switch defect
4 - Speed sensor left front gone
5 - Speed sensor right front gone
6 - Speed sensor rear center gone
7 - All speed sensors gone
8 - Hydraulic valve 1, short- or open-circuit
9 - Hydraulic valve 2, short- or open-circuit
10- Hydraulic valve 3, short- or open-circuit, OR brake switch defect
11- Steering angle sensor defect
Also, it would behoove you to do a complete and correct bleed....so you can rule out air pockets which could
cause erratic symptoms. Unlike the SLS system, the 4matic system does not self-bleed over time.